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Short answer: Check whether your ski is inserted (machine screws) or pre-drilled (self-tapping screws). Position the front boot using the distance-from-tail measurement for your exact ski model and length, start all six bolts loosely, then tighten without cross-threading. Put the rear toe plate as close to the front boot as it will go. Mount the fin with the fasteners that came with it — on a competition fin, the three front screws are the ones that lock it. If your ski has a wing, leave the bolts loose until you have set the angle with a gauge to the manufacturer's factory setting.
If you bought a complete slalom ski from us it arrives boots on, fin fitted at factory settings, ready to ski. This is for the other two cases: a blank ski, or replacing the boots or fin on a ski you already own. Reuben works through the whole build in the video.
Reuben on mounting boots, rear toe plate and fin to a blank slalom ski — 6 minutes 47 seconds.
Most modern skis are inserted — they have threaded inserts ready for a machine screw, which is a small bolt. Others are simply pre-drilled and take a self-tapping screw. Check which one you have before you start, because it decides what fastener goes into every hole on the ski, bindings and fin alike.
Sit the boot on the ski so its hole pattern lines up with the inserts. The correct position is set by one measurement: from the tail of the ski to the heel of the front boot — the distance from tail. It is different for every model and every length, so look yours up on the manufacturer's website or in our Resource Centre. Do not guess it.
Use the bolts that came with your binding, not substitutes — head sizes and washers vary between brands and the wrong ones will not seat properly. Start all six loosely first, check the boot is still in position and everything lines up, then tighten them down, taking care not to cross-thread.
Same process. Line the holes up with the inserts and position it as close to the front boot as it will go. Start all the bolts, check nothing is cross-threaded, then finish them tight.
There are two types. A fixed fin has zero to minimal adjustment: line the holes up with the ski and fasten it with the six bolts or self-tapping screws that came with the fin. A competition fin adjusts for depth, length and distance from tail: slot it into the ski and secure it with machine screws. On a competition fin, the three screws at the front are what lock it in place — get those tight with an Allen key. The two grub screws and the one at the back are adjustment screws, and tuning those is a separate job.
A foil or wing is two pieces and two bolts, one wing either side of the fin, with the bolts passing through the fin. Get both bolts through and the foil connected, but leave them loose — you need a little movement to fit the gauge. Set the angle to the manufacturer's factory setting using wing gauges (we use Ski Doc gauges, colour-coded by angle). The ski in the video is set at 7 degrees because that is what its manufacturer specifies. Then tighten everything up.
The two numbers you must look up, not guess. The distance from tail for your front boot and the wing angle are both specific to your ski's make, model and length. Both live on the manufacturer's website, and we keep them in our Resource Centre. Everything else in this guide is the same across skis; these two are not.
It is set by the distance from tail — the measurement from the tail of the ski to the heel of the front boot. That number is specific to your ski's model and length, and you will find it on the manufacturer's website or in our Resource Centre.
As close as it will go. That is our recommendation and it is where most riders end up.
No. Use the fasteners that came with the binding and with the fin. There are a lot of different heads and washers out there, and the wrong bolt will not seat correctly in the insert.
A fixed fin has zero to minimal adjustment and just bolts on. A competition fin adjusts for depth, length and distance from tail, and has separate locking and adjustment screws.
The three at the front. Do those up tight with an Allen key. The two grub screws and the one at the back are adjustment screws — leave those for tuning.
Whatever your ski's manufacturer specifies — it is not a universal number. Look it up, then set it with wing gauges. The ski in our video is set at 7 degrees because that is its factory setting.
If you bought a complete ski from us, yes — boots on, fin fitted at factory settings, ready to ski. This guide is for blank skis and for replacing boots or a fin on a ski you already own.
Before and after every ski. The fin is one of the most important parts of the ski, and a loose fin bolt changes how the ski behaves before it falls out.
Stuck on any part of the build, or not sure which fin your ski takes? Get in touch, or bring the ski into our Brisbane store and we will set it up with you.
Waterskiers World — Australia's dedicated towed water sports retailer, family-run for over 20 years from our Brisbane store and online. Get in touch.
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Gifting has never been easier
Perfect if you're short on time or are unable to deliver your gift yourself. Enter your message and select when to send it.