The Breakdown: Kneeboards!!

Kneeboarding is one of the easiest ways to get someone onto the water, and the range runs a long way from there. Reuben goes through the constructions and shapes in the video below.

Reuben on kneeboard constructions and shapes — 5 minutes 27 seconds. Chapters: constructions, plastic boards, narrow tip and tail fibreglass, wide tip and tail fibreglass, and modern shaped boards.

Construction is what you are paying for

Roto-moulded plastic

A one-piece moulded polyethylene shell, usually foam filled. The big advantage is durability — a plastic board takes being dragged over rocks, ramps and jetties far better than fibreglass does, which matters when it is the board the kids grab.

They almost always have an integrated tow hook, which makes deep water starts straightforward, and they have moulded-in fins and channels for directional control. You can absolutely learn jumps, spins and carves on one — this is not a board you outgrow in a fortnight.

Browse plastic kneeboards

Compression-moulded fibreglass

Built the same way as a slalom ski or a wakeboard: a shaped core with a fibreglass or carbon laminate pressed around it. The result is thinner and stiffer, with sharper rails and a narrower edge profile.

One thing that surprises people: fibreglass boards are less buoyant, which makes deep water starts easier, not harder. The board sits lower and comes up under you rather than floating out in front. Complex shapes are possible in this construction, which is where multiple flips and spins come from — and why these boards suit riders who already know what they are doing.

Browse fibreglass kneeboards

Timber

The top of our range includes timber-construction boards. These are the most expensive kneeboards we stock and are aimed squarely at advanced riders.

Tip and tail shape

Pointy tip, rounded tail

The classic kneeboard profile — the shape Hydroslide invented the kneeboard with. Predictable and easy to ride, with smooth turns and easy cuts in and out of the wake.

Square tip and tail

Makes surface tricks easier and rides forwards and backwards equally well. More pop off the wake, and the wider shape gives more air. Boards in this shape often have more complex bottom profiles to soften the landing on big-air tricks.

Fins

Some kneeboards have retractable fins, and some retract on the fly — up or down without stopping.

• Fins down — slalom-style carves and aggressive attacks into the wake.
• Fins up — fast surface spins and riding backwards.

The higher-performing boards build their performance into the rails, edges and stiffness rather than relying on fins to hold a line.

Straps and pads

• Wider straps are more comfortable, usually neoprene or EVA padded.
• Shock straps stop the strap loosening through big jumps and landings.
• 2:1 leverage tightening on some boards genuinely locks you in.
• Strap extensions are available for larger riders; narrower knee slots suit smaller ones.
• Thicker pads soften the landing on big-air tricks.

Which one are you?

• Kids, family, first-timer — plastic, with a tow hook. Beginner kneeboards
• Progressing past plastic — a narrower tip and tail fibreglass board: better edge control, plenty of pop. Intermediate kneeboards
• Chasing maximum air — a wide tip and tail fibreglass board. More pop, harder to edge. Advanced kneeboards
• Smooth carver on a bigger wake — a modern rounded shape, for edge hold and speed with smoother landings.

Common questions

Why do kneeboards range from a couple of hundred dollars to over a thousand?

Construction. Roto-moulded plastic boards are one-piece mouldings and sit at the affordable end. Compression-moulded fibreglass boards are built more like a wakeboard or slalom ski and cost more. At the very top of the range there are timber-construction boards, which are the most expensive we stock. Current pricing for every board is on the kneeboard collection page.

What is the difference between a plastic and a fibreglass kneeboard?

A roto-moulded plastic board is a one-piece moulding, usually foam filled. It is very durable, handles being dragged around the water's edge, and usually has an integrated tow hook. A compression-moulded fibreglass board is thinner and stiffer, with sharper rails and a narrower edge profile, and it is less buoyant — which actually makes deep water starts easier.

Which kneeboard should a beginner buy?

A roto-moulded plastic board. They are durable, forgiving, usually come with a built-in tow hook for easy deep water starts, and you can still learn jumps, spins and carves on one. Kids and families almost always end up here.

What does the tip and tail shape change?

A pointy tip with a rounded tail is the classic kneeboard shape — predictable, smooth through turns, easy in and out of the wake. A square tip and tail makes surface tricks easier, rides forwards and backwards equally well, and gives more pop off the wake.

What do retractable fins on a kneeboard do?

They let you change the board's behaviour without swapping boards. Fins down gives you slalom-style carves and a board that holds an edge into the wake. Fins up gives you fast surface spins and lets you ride backwards. Some boards retract on the fly, without stopping.

Do I need fins at all on a high-performance kneeboard?

Not in the same way. The higher-performing boards build their performance into the rails, edges and stiffness of the board rather than relying on fins to hold a line.

What should I look for in the straps and pad?

Wider neoprene or EVA straps are more comfortable. Shock straps stop the strap loosening through big jumps and landings, and some boards use a 2:1 leverage system to lock you in. Strap extensions are available for larger riders, and narrower knee slots suit smaller riders. A thicker pad softens the landing on big-air tricks.

Can I use my normal ski handle in a kneeboard tow hook?

No. Use a proper hook handle. A regular EVA or suede grip handle is not built to sit in a kneeboard hook and can bend or break there.

What size kneeboard do I need?

Most kneeboards are one size. The fit that matters is the knee slot and strap, which is why boards aimed at smaller riders have narrower knee slots and strap extensions exist for larger riders.

How do I get up on a kneeboard?

With the tow hook, put the handle in the hook and let the boat pull you up. Without one, lie on the board and pull yourself up onto your knees as the boat takes up the rope. Our getting-up guide walks through both.

Related guides

• How to set up your kneeboard
• How to get up on a kneeboard
• Resource Centre — the rest of the guides and how-to videos.

Shop the gear

• All kneeboards — current pricing and stock.
• Kneeboard ropes and handles — including hook handles.
• Kneeboard accessories

Not sure whether to step up from plastic yet? Talk to us — tell us who is riding it and what they are trying to do, and we will tell you whether it is worth the jump.